Power generator

[Ricardo]

It was done several years ago by MRCC, and published in the MAAC magazine.

We tried to suggest at Wimac but we had concerns about people stealing the panels and batteries / charge controllers.

I have solar panels installed at home, I use the Victron charge controllers (Mppt).

It is a significant investment, given the panels dont always work with optimum solar incidence, so we would need several panels and large batteries.

If we need 115VAC we would also need inverters.

All this needs to be safely installed and locked away.

Regards

Ricardo

[juance]

Good idea. It would be much better to have two 12-volt deep cycle batteries connected in series that would be better for fast-high amperage charging.
I'll check an existing installation and I will post what's needed.

[juance]

This is the controller I was talking about:
https://www.solarflexion.com/product-p/ts-45.htm

There are many better priced good options like
https://ca.renogy.com/renogy-100-wat...of-controller/
that would fit our needs.

Juan

[Sempai-mj]

Found this on the Web. do you think it's worth a shot?

Loss of Residual Magnetism in the Alternator
Once you’ve verified that your breakers are not the problem, the next thing to do is see if you’ve got a loss of residual magnetism in your alternator. Electromagnets, like those in your generator’s alternator, need a bit of residual magnetism to be “primed” to get the electrical generation process going, for a lack of a better term.
Sometimes, after sitting unused for extended periods, allowing the generator to run out of gas with a load on it, or turning off the generator’s engine start switch with a load on it, a generator’s residual magnetism can be neutralized or lost.
Luckily, there are a few ways to fix this problem. My favorite involves something I saw when growing up and it involves using nothing more than a corded drill.
With the generator running, the AC power turned on, and the drill plugged in, try to start the drill. We are assuming that it will not run. Otherwise, you wouldn’t be reading this.
Now, make sure the drill is set to drill in the forward position (the chuck will turn clockwise if you’re holding the handle and it’s facing away from you). Then, press down on the trigger with your right hand and spin the empty drill chuck (do not have any drill bit inside!) backward, or counter-clockwise. Do this in a fast and flicking motion so that your hand is barely grabbing it during the process and is clear of the chuck after the spin.
You do not want your hand getting caught, and that is the reason I would discourage wearing gloves, but that’s your choice. I certainly wouldn’t want loose-fitting gloves.

[Dwight Macdonald]

I suppose it's worth a try.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

[juance]

I already when through all the process of trying to re-magnetize it, in different ways, by applying DC current directly to the windings, the drill too but it wouldn't work on most brushless (the club's is a brushless). I also spoke with some repair guys and all coincided that on that model is quite typical, and there a no spare parts. Also the fact that it quit while running indicates that it's own generated magnetism won't self re-magnetize.
It's very unfortunate because the engine is in perfect shape.
Juan

[Sempai-mj]

Thanks Juan!

[Sempai-mj]

Robert, Mezri and I fixed the generator today.

We changed the capacitor, now it's putting out 120VAC.

[juance]

Great news!
Thanks.

[Jdonald]

Thats great. Good job.
It would be a shame to scrap it with a fine working motor.

Mezri and Robert also helped solve a noisy and vibrating prop issue
that has plagued the FMS 2.0m Extra since day one.

I had changed props, balanced props and hubs, checked bearings, engine mounts
all with no improvement.

The cause was due to the moulded back plate of the prop spinner that had some small tabs left over from the manufacturing process the resulted in poor prop alignment. What an enormous difference this small attention to detail has made.

Thanks guys!